Monday, April 25, 2011

Frohes Ostern in East Germany - Leipzig

My lovely lab colleagues are sharing me around for long weekends/holidays and so for Easter, I spent time with Zasie and her family in Saschsen-Anhalt. When people asked me where I was going for Easter, I would joke that I was going to *glamorous East Germany*, where I'd share a room with two other adults, and everything is always still under construction. But the reality is that I found the places I went to were really interesting. This includes Zasie's village where only 3000 people live, the church dates to the 13th century, the roads are still cobbled, and her home which is over 100 years old.  


Anyway, this far west was actually liberated by the American forces during the war but due to the terms of the Potsdam Agreement, it was handed over to the Soviets. As someone who was alive at the time of liberation, Oma said this was like *hooray!* followed by *noooo!* The former DDR (Deutsch Democratische Republik) is generally poorer than West Germany and residents of this country (including yours truly) pay a tax dedicated to the reunion that's supposed to help the East rebuild their infrastructure. Pulling into Leipzig Hauptbahnhof, I noticed that in contrast to Muenchen, there were a lot more derelict buildings with graffiti, but the station itself is a glorious piece of well-restored early 20th architecture. Zasie said Leipzig is probably the most well-recovered of the major DDR cities (excluding Berlin), probably due to the fact it was quite a prominent city both then and now with many trade fairs as well as a strong history to pull tourists. This combination of old historical sites playing different roles over time was quite interesting to me. 


Leipzig was extensively bombed during WWII but still has a moderately intact Old Town. 


Nice contrast of the old buildings on the right with the newer ones on the left.

The Rathouse

Johann Sebastian Bach worked at and is buried in the Thomaskirche. There was a service going (it was Good Friday) on so we couldn't go inside. 

Goethe was a student in Leipzig, and the restaurant where the Devil bewitches the students still exists with a sculpture to let you know it took place there!

Statue of Goethe outside the old Bourse

Between the Thomaskirche and Auerbachs Keller was this really nice park with lots of cherry trees in blossom. 

The park was the site of an impromtu and illegal public musical performance in 1989 that led to the violent arrests of the musicians and members of the audience. 

Inside the Nikolaikirche, late Rococo/early Neoclassic style with plant-like Corinthian columns! The Nikolaikirche was also where dissidents gathered (the Church being sympathetic to them and the regime a little unwilling to go against the church) and demonstrations against the DDR centered around the church. 

Cool mural celebrating the demonstrations! These demonstrations paved the way to the fall of the Berlin Wall. People Power!!!

This sculpture is also supposed to represent DDR oppression but I can't remember what. 

So I found Leipzig a really interesting city showing the contrast of the different histories it has had. Ultimately however, I think it can be summed up by this sculpture located on the outer wall of a beer hall...

Because, East or West, Leipzig is still Germany - aka Beer Country! 


Next entry - Potsdam(chen) and burning away winter!

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