Monday, July 01, 2013

St. Petersburg Day 2

Knowing that we had a limited amount of time in the city, since going to the Hermitage was the highest priority on both our lists, H and I decided to dedicate our sole full day to exploring the museum.

But first I want to share this amusing list of usage instructions on some toilets in the Hermitage courtyard. 

There was an insane amount of art, so I won't talk so much about what you can see there, but I would have been happy ignoring the art to look at the building. As befitting the home of the Tsars, it is amazing and I was blown away.
You could hear an audible gasp from everyone when they walked in and headed through the hall and up these stairs. 
Check out my expression! It was also on all the visitors' faces!


The amazing Peacock clock

Rooftop garden *sigh*

Admiring the art in the Italian Skylight Room...

As well as the Asian poses and the Asian photo-taking poses

Caravaggio's Lute Player

The Italian Sculpture Hall. *sigh*

Having been through many of the major art galleries and palaces of the world, you can get a bit fatigued and feel same-samey, but when seeing something special like the Malachite Room...

Or Nicholas II's private library which is in the Gothic Revival style

Despite undergoing restoration, the Guard Room was still impressive.

As was the hallway filled with portraits of what looked like every officer in the Russian Imperial Army

St George's Hall, the principal throne room of the palace.

Benois Madonna by Leonardo

Litta Madonna by Leonardo (and I think an assistant).

I think we stayed in the Museum for about 3-4 hours until we were basically overcome by thirst, hunger, and a need to sit down. H and I decided that we'd seen pretty much all the highlights - the gallery is spread over 120 rooms and apparently has the largest collection of paintings in the world - so it was time to scoot and get some food!
So we went to Shtolles on Nevsky Prospekt were the chicken pie was again sold out! So we got mushroom, fish, and cabbage (poor man's meat) pie. Once again, we were delighted by how delicious they were and swore we would return again for the chicken! 

After lunch, we decided to head to St. Isaacs and climb the dome and get some views over the city. 
Having much experience in dome climbing, I set a cracking pace.

The Mariinsky Palace, just behind St. Isaac's Square...

View towards Senate Square and the Alexander Gardens...

The gold spire of the Admiralty and the Winter Palace/Hermitage in the distance...

Rooftop gardens and the domes of the Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood...

and err...the docklands

Following this, we decided to stroll along the river and make our way over to the Peter and Paul Fortress.
Moments after this photo was taken, speedo guy jumped in the river!

And we saw this asshole guy spray water at the people watching him from the embankment


The fortress was the original citadel of Peters, and the golden Peter and Paul Cathedral in the fortress is the final resting place of Nicholas II and family.

The view of the Palace Embankment from the fortress ramparts.

I don't know what that is, but it looks like a bear!

People swimming by the fortress. I don't know, that river looked pretty scungy to me.

Barges go by...

As do some Tall ships for the Scarlet Sails fest!

Following this, we crossed the river and headed towards the Letniy Sad/Summer Garden and enjoyed walking between the parterres, sculptures and fountains. 

I don't know what's made me laugh in this photo. I could have been because we saw a couple on one side of the path aggressively making out while being watched by a couple opposite.

Eventually we, well, I got hungry again and I dragged H around to look for some pelmeni. While walking around the canals and checking my phone for recommendations, I happened to look up and see this restaurant, Pelmenya, and I said *Hey, the name of this place says dumplings!* H's response, *How can you tell?* Me, *I just can* and so we went in. I don't think H was particularly convinced by Russian/Slavic food before, but this place changed him.
Tossing between getting the pelmeni with smetana (sour cream) or in chicken broth, we chose the broth. We don't regret that, it was fortifying.

Our favourite! Mashed potato-filled varenyky. I actually wanted to order more after eating them.

Meat-filled Khinkali! Also filled with nom nom nom!

I think this was essentially dim sum and I was upset and wanted to order more varenyky after seeing it! I was surprisingly full after finishing all the goodiebags though. I guess my dumpling stomach has shrunk :( But I would totally come back here!

 Upon leaving the restaurant and making our way back to Nevsky, the street was completely packed and the streets had been blockaded like a cross between the police and military, which threw a great spanner in our plan to try and make our way back to Palace square to see what was happening for the Scarlet Sails. Being a cute girl, I decided the best way to figure out what to do was to talk to a soldier. With hand gestures (seriously, I need to learn Russian), it was determined that the streets were blocked to all unless they had tickets :(
Hardcore trucks blocking the way

It didn't stop people trying to get through though

We also thought we'd be clever and go around them.

No dice, side streets leading to Nevsky were also blocked :( We conceded defeat and headed back to the hotel.

And so here is a photo of the midnight Super Moon.

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